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1962 Triumph TR4 Restoration |
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Brian Sanborn, Groton, MA |
Doors and Windows
As long as I had the door interior panels off, I took the
opportunity to replace the door glass channels, as well as, the
inner and outer door glass seals. Like most of the rubber on
the car... the black rubber outer seals were dried out, stiff and
cracking. The inner seals had no "fuzzy stuff" left
to provide any vibration control. And, the driver's side
window rattles badly when you shut the door and while you were
driving. The passengers door wasn't much better.
This is the right time to inspect the inner surfaces of the doors for rust, to make sure the bottom of the door is free of debris and that the drain holes are open and clear. If you find rust, you must deal with it or it will surely get worse real soon.
One of the things I found missing and/or mangled were the plastic sheeting water guards that hang from the bottom of the lower door glass channel. They are supposed to protect the back of the door panels from getting wet when the door glass is up and you are driving in the rain. To properly replace them would require removing the glass from the glazing channel... something I did not want to tackle this year. I will go back next summer and seal the inner door under the panel with thick plastic sheet as you find in today's modern cars.
Replacing the window glass channels
This is a pretty easy job as long as you have access with the door panels removed. New front and rear window glass channels are available from TRF and Moss. They are retained in the door with bolts that are easily accessed. You do one track at a time with the door glass still in place. Roll the window glass 98% of the way and then remove the rear channel. You just slip in the new channel and make sure everything is lined up. Then do the front channel... really straightforward.
Replacing window seals
This is not as tough as it looks... once you get the knack of it. Start by getting the right tools and parts. Order a complete new set of clips. The outer seal clips and the inner seal clips are slightly different.
You will need to make a homemade clip installation tool. Look at the TR4 workshop manual or the latest Moss catalog parts page for hints. The best solution I have found is one of those PCI adapter slot covers that you probably have lying around from your computer. It has the perfect "J" shape that's needed.
The aftermarket inner seals seem to be very good from TRF. However, I was very disappointed in the outer black rubber seals. The rubber is just not up to the job and they were splitting after 2 months where my arm rests on the door while driving. Maybe the ones from Moss are better.
Start by loosening the door glass height adjustment nut and let the window settle way down and out of the way. Then proceed with the inner seal. The trick is to position the seal and the to put one of the clips on the J-hook and pull up catching the edge of the seal and the sheetmetal lip. It works like a paper clip. It will take some practice and you will drop the clip into the bottom of the door at least 25 times before your done. Then do the outer seal. This may need trimming. Make sure that you trim it taking into account the rear curve in the door outline.
Adjust the door glass
You finish up by adjusting the door glass using the instructions in the TR4 Workshop Manual. Position the glass so that it is at the right height to just slip under the tops little water runoff lip and that it lines up with and is parallel to the windscreen side edge. You need about 3/8" of the rubber seal showing.
If you get it right... the top of the glass will just touch the inner door seal fuzzy when the window is cranked down. This will keep the door from rattling and you have that nice quiet "clunk" when you close the door and no more rattles while driving.